KITE PLANS  FOR EXPERTS
Here I present the plans of kites so other kitebuilders could continue the work of me.
Much is left out so there is needed former experience.
Many of the plans are also shown in the book "Better Kites".

About 1982 I started develop the "trouser kite". It was patented in the US, but with no
economic success.

The bottom of two bags are fixed together with a straight seam.
If you have only two briddles, you need a stick along this seam.

I use in some cases a thick line on top of the seam, along the seam. It is easier to fix
the briddle lines to this thick line through the sail.

The air intakes are at the front of the kite, but can also be under the kite in the front.
Like in the "clown" where the black eyes are flaps wich close when the kite is filled.

There is a hole in a very exact place betwen the two inner sails. A. When one bag is not
well filled air will go to the other one and fill it. B. The place of the hole is so situated
that the air can escape when the two bags are hard filled. Thus the pressure inside
is kept under a safe maximum, even in storm.

At the very ends of the kite are two small holes for exess rainwater to come out. 

The front top or side corners cannot be round. Those models are not stable. I don´t
know why. Most times this kite model need streamers, but some are stable without.

The small rabbit kite is also a "trouser kite" with long ears in the front. It is curious
how stable it is. The air intake is the rabbit mouth. It has long ears filled with air.

As you see, the simple bag kite is not so simple.





Sometime in 1980 I started to develpope the "cone kite". Acording to rumors small ones were sold in Japan, so I never patented it.
The one in the picture is the Long One. It flies with only two briddle lines, but not at very
high angle. The finest property of this kite is that it falls together to a long thin packet when
landing through a tree. In one kite festival two young boys made this kite. When high up
the line broke, but the kite sailed only higher up and disappeared sailing to Russia.
This is the ultimate kite.
It totally obeys the wishes of the wind. Flies in about no wind and in full storm. It has flown
on all continents.

On kite workshops the exact measures of the bridle has been a problem. It must be totally
symmetrical and in the absolute right angle forfards. There is a new lifting factor not used
in any other lkite. The air which goes into the kite, comes out as a strong  jet stream.

In old models I used streamers and thought they would stabilize the kite. But they do the
opposite. The easy and only thing that balances the kite is a weight down in the back.
Never use big stones, but many small stones so you don´t kill anybody.

The most fantastic property of this kite is its ability to squese together when no wind,
remain in the right position in the air, and open again when the wind comes.

The kite is some uggly and you need fantasy to get some good design.

And as with most of my kites: Pleace use very thin foil for the kites. But use your sense,
sometimes thicker sails are needed.

The text is in Finnish, hut things are so evident that you understand the drawings.

This is my conynedelta. I call it the King of Kites. One copy has world record in ascending.

It is similar to all other conynedeltas but:
There is no top sail at he back. I experienced that the normal conynedeltas sailed up to
a steep angle and after that fell backwars to a lover position. Going up and down between
two end positions all the time. So I toop the top sail at the back away. And that fixed it.

Also in the conynedelta I have small stones at the back. This way i can balance the kite
so it stays horisontal high up when the wind is gone. And starts to fly again when wind
comes. The balance of the kite is important. Different spars change the balance.

I use one kite many times for dropping candies. It does not need ANY WIND to
ascend with half a kilo of candies. You just run fast four meters. The wing span
on the standard models is 9 meters. A bigger one is 18 meters. Nine meters is needed for
lifting half a kilo of candies. I also use it for air photography and for picking kites from
trees after a festival. The kite can be put up in the air very exactly above the tree. From the
lite goes a line with a big wooden hook fown. I save the kite from the tree by lifting it high
upp in the air and place it down on the lawn.

By making the fabric tubes around the front spars of the wings large, I got a moore streamlined profile.
The "djinn kites" are one of my favourites.
They are uggly monsters in the sky with a lot of "hair". I try to make them
with no spars, but two spars making them to normal sledges will not interfear
with the main idea. There is not much technical to say.
The place of the bridle is important.
This is a dancing square delta. I think the pockets along the back edge do it. By the way:
The holes in the sail double the lift of a delta.
A two briddle and very short cone kite.
Experiment with the geometry until it works. Then you get a high flying and very simple
kite.
All these years I have done different puppet theatre dolls. The new ones fly backwards so the
audince will see the dolls and I only see the back of them. As they have to fly at a very steep
angle of sail, they must be very light.
People ask me: How is the tube Thai snake done.
So here is a picture. The light system is also shown, but with different lamps and different
voltage you need a different grid.

The bow of the head is from commersial American Thai snakes, that are suitable soft
plastic to be bent as you wish and never brake.

The lines for the lamps ar of very thin corded copper and are not stiff at all, and have
never broken. The battery holder is a problem..

The tail end of the kite must be made stronger. It bangs into the soil with strong forse.

The flying line is fixed to the stick so the line coming out of the stick is bent softly.
A metal line would be broken in hours. The stick end must be so soft no child will be hurt
when getting the end of the stick in the eye. If that ever happens.
The work with the lamps needs an expert in soldering.

The tube is from very thin plastic, a kind of polupropen, not polyethene. It is welded
inside out and then turned outside out with a cold hair dryer.
There are moore developed kites, but they might be shown later.